Tiaras in spotlight after Princess Aiko turns 20 | NHK WORLD-JAPAN News
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Imperial family tiaras typically cost between 130,000 to 250,000 dollars, which usually come from the state coffers. Princesses who leave the family for reasons such as marriage must return theirs to the government. But Kuroda—who wed in 2005—didn’t have to, because the funds for hers came out of the former Emperor's family expenses.
Currently, the Imperial Household Agency keeps eight tiaras, including one used by Crown Prince Akishino's daughter Mako, who left the Imperial family after marrying in October.
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Tiaras ‘part of protocol’
Spending public money on expensive tiaras is not without its critics, but Aoki Junko, an expert on royal fashion, insists they are a necessary part of formal protocol. “I think it’s important for female members of the Imperial family to wear tiaras,” she says. “They are part of the rules of courtesy between countries.”
Nishimura Yasuhiko, the Grand Steward of the Imperial Household Agency, shares similar sentiments. At a news conference in November, he said tiaras are necessary for ceremonies, and that producing them is not wasteful. As for Princess Aiko, he said: “In light of the coronavirus situation, the government decided not to use state funds after consulting with the Emperor and Empress. The government will consider the matter again in the future.”
Japanese NHK article has more information:
- cost of parures, 2001-2014
- A/B type discussion regarding jewelry inherited from emperor to emperor
- history of tiaras in Japan/Westernization
- royal fashion expert Aoki Junko doesn't confirm Michiko's third tiara with "Karakusa pattern" was Princess Chichibu's. She says it's "very similar to the one used by Princess Chichibu."
Mainichi about tiaras/Westernization
- adjustments of Sayako's tiara to fit Aiko was paid with private expenses
- In 1886, Japan's first Prime Minister, Hirobumi Ito, gave notice to women at court to wear Western attire
- Empress Shoken wore a formal long dress at New Year's ceremony in January 1887 and probably the Meiji tiara
- The photograph of Empress Shoken wearing the Meiji tiara was taken in 1889
- Mikimoto created the empress' second tiara (chrysanthemum) in 1917 for Empress Teimei and a tiara for Princess Nagako when she married the Crown Prince in 1924
- It is said Crown Princess Nagako's tiara was remade into the current Crown Princess Scroll/1st tiara for Michiko, later passed to Masako and Kiko
I have always liked this tiara and now think that it suits Princess Aiko very well. Also the necklace is quite nice. But it's out of proportion compared with the parures of her cousins, imo. Given that at the Japanese court precedence is also reflected by the size of the jewels worn, the daughter of the Emperor should not be out-shone by her cousin.
Sayako's parure was paid from private expenses so it reflects her taste. The publicly funded parures began in 2001 and by 2014, a panel selected the design so Kako apparently didn't get to choose. Necklace aside, the younger princesses tiaras seem similar in size/highest point. As the lowest in precedence, Princess Ayako didn't receive the smallest/shortest tiara.
Personally, I prefer the design of Ayako and Noriko's tiaras to Mako and Kako's.
ETA: Female royals' coming-of-age ceremony started with Sayako "considering the flow of the times." The Imperial family marked a male royal's coming-of-age with "Kakan-no-Gi" ceremony but females' adulthood was celebrated privately. Due to Emperor Showa's death and mourning, she only received her Order in 1989. The luncheon and dinner party were held in 1990.
Source:
Mainichi