When Queen Rania visited the Taj Mall in Amman for lunch in 2014, it was crowded with members of the Jordanian upper crust, drinking frappés as they shopped at royal favourites Burberry and Armani.
Now the hulking glass shopping centre is half-empty, its customers driven away by a crippling economic crisis that has sparked an outpouring of fury. Jordan’s royal family and glamorous queen are in the firing line.
“We’re suffering, and the royal family don’t give a crap,” said Asma, a 19-year-old shop assistant, as she stared into an empty store in the Taj Mall. “They have to reduce their spending and their costs, because they have to at least look like they’re with the people. But they don’t.”
The turmoil of the Middle East is encroaching on the carefully guarded stability of this key ally of the West. Its constitutional monarchy survived the 2011 Arab Spring, but seven years on the omens have changed.
Though Jordan appears peaceful and prosperous, economists say it is hurtling towards economic disaster, all the faster because of its reliance on foreign aid.
An economic downturn became a crisis after Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates and Kuwait — hit by falling oil prices — failed to renew a £2.6bn aid programme last year.
America, which sees Jordan as a vital buffer of stability, has increased its funding but the government deficit has reached £757m, and the national debt is 95% of GDP, up from 71% in 2011.
Last month, the government increased taxes on 169 commodities, including flour, causing the price of bread to double. Protests broke out immediately. Videos on social media and independent news websites show gatherings of hundreds of people across the country chanting: “The people of Jordan are on fire, all because of the rise in prices.”
“Give it two or three months,” one local commentator, who did not want to be named, said last week. “It’s getting extremely volatile, and we don’t know what the consequences will be. There’s no limit to what people can do when they’re hungry.”
In increasingly loud voices, Jordanians are accusing the government of corruption and incompetence. More quietly, they are starting to break a strict taboo: accusing the royal family of ignoring the crisis, and of flaunting their lavish lifestyles as ordinary Jordanians suffer.
The queen last year wore clothes valued at £236,000 during public appearances, according to a website monitoring royal fashion. “Everything she wears is so expensive,” said one person living in Amman. “People see the way other royals, like Kate Middleton, dress in high street brands, and they compare it. It’s not a good look for her with the economy as it is.”
Hussein, who took the throne at 17 in 1953 and ruled through tumultuous times until his death in 1999, created a constitutional monarchy that provides for elections but gives his son, Abdullah, extensive influence over policy making. The country is firmly under the royal thumb.
Abdullah has published papers calling for a more inclusive, pluralistic political system, yet those charged with “disrespecting” him can face three years in jail. Since 2016, independent press coverage of the royal family has been in effect banned after the government prohibited local outlets from publishing any news about it except for statements directly from the royal court.
The 56-year-old king and his family are publicly revered. Almost all criticism happens in private. [...]
Pictures of Abdullah, whose mother, Princess Muna al-Hussein, was born in Chelmondiston, Suffolk, adorn shopfronts and offices. [...]
Yet the criticism of the royals, analysts say, is growing across the social strata. “It is modern women and men who are saying this as well as the working class,” said a local journalist. “The king and queen are both educated, they’re westernised, but somehow they don’t understand this.”
Jordan’s large middle class has been severely hit by the economic crisis. Although education and literacy are among the best in the region, almost a third of young people are unemployed. Rents in Amman are steep, making it difficult for them to live independently.
Asma, like most of her friends, wants to leave the country. Though she is from a well-to-do family, she struggles to get by on the £280 a month she earns working seven days a week as a shop assistant to finance her degree. “They’ve basically managed to wipe out the middle class in a year,” she said. “Why would I ever stay here?”
A third of Jordan’s population lives below the poverty line for at least a quarter of the year, and has been hit hardest. “We’ve been giving people bread because they can’t afford it,” said Majid, a baker, as he dusted off his floury hands in a souk just a few miles from the Taj Mall. “People are going hungry.”
At a nearby barber shop, Ahmed, 37, sat drinking coffee — passing the time without customers. Three months ago, his electricity bill doubled.
He believes corruption lies at the heart of Jordan’s problems. Last year, it was ranked 59 out of 180 on Transparency International’s corruption perceptions index — below Rwanda and Saudi Arabia. “I know the government is corrupt,” Ahmed said, lighting a cigarette. “I’m angry, and I feel this is an injustice but as an ordinary citizen I can’t speak out because this will cause me problems. People are willing to accept corruption if we have security. I know for sure the government steals, but I can’t do anything because I don’t want Jordan to be like Syria.”
That fear of contagion from the war raging next door is a powerful force for stability. But analysts say economic reform is vital. Much of the state’s budget goes on salaries and pensions in the bloated public sector.
“The fundamental problem is that the government is too large and the spending is not directed towards productive activities,” said Marwan Muasher, a former Jordanian foreign minister and vice-president of the Carnegie Endowment, a Washington think tank.
“We should have seen it coming. We have relied on the rentier system and foreign aid for too long and we find ourselves in a crisis that we don’t know how to get out of. People are angry because there’s no end in sight. Every time that the government has an economic crisis, it is them who are being asked to pay the price. You can’t ask people to keep giving sacrifices without giving them a voice. This is what caused the Arab Spring in the first place.”